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Death Valley, April 2018: Base Camp ::: Ride 1 ::: Ride 2 ::: Ride 3 ::: Ride 4 ::: Ride 5 ::: Laura from France


Death Valley, April 2018: Ride 1: Badwater
19 April 2018

I could go anywhere
My soul is on fire
A wind is blowing through my heart
And the angels are riding on my tires....
          --- Lynn Miles
Okay. After the weather forecast looked like Goldilocks for a few days—not too hot during the day, not too cold at night, not too much wind, no rain—I drove ten hours to Death Valley yesterday and grabbed a campsite at Furnace Creek just after 5:00.

My plan for today involved an easy warm-up cruise on pavement to Badwater and back for just under 40 miles. Having pedaled it once previously, I knew that despite the flatness of the valley between Badwater and Furnace Creek, the road ran right at the edge of the eastern hills, making interesting rollers and curves. It should be a speedy ride in cool, clear conditions with light, polite traffic and awesome views of Badwater basin, salt flats, raw desert, and flanking mountains wearing colorful Death Valley hues.

If, as anticipated, I had enough gas left in the tank, I had another ride in mind for later in the afternoon.

Well, some parts of some plans work out as expected, but some parts of some plans collapse right away.


Thursday morning. Under surprisingly thick and dark clouds, sunrise paints the top of the Panamint Range in the west.

When I checked my window of opportunity yesterday morning before I drove south, today's forecast called for mostly clear skies, mild temperatures, moderate breezes, and no rain. However, in reality the wind is howling, and I can see it's raining at the northern end of the valley.

It was so windy I cooked and ate breakfast in the tent.


While pondering the unexpected weather conditions, I walked over to the Visitor Center in order to pay for my tenement campsite, because the office was closed when I arrived yesterday. At the office, rangers were posting a hazardous wind warning. Outside the Visitor Center I spotted this LHT. Note the flag standing up in the wind.


Then I spotted Will, the owner of the LHT. Surprisingly, he's from Guerneville, just about 20 miles from my home in Santa Rosa. He's riding his Surly Long Haul Trucker across the USA, with Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon next on his agenda.

Will was also a little surprised about the unexpected hazardous wind warning. He was planning to climb Daylight Pass today, but first he wanted to see Badwater. With all the wind however, he knew it would take too long to pedal there and back—if it were possible at all—so he decided to hitchhike to Badwater. That left him pondering where to leave the bike while he took the side trip before riding east. I solved that by offering to let him leave his bike and gear at my campsite, which he did. Will and the LHT were gone by the time I got back from Badwater.


Will walked out to the road and put his thumb out, leaving the LHT at my site.

Despite all the wind and threatening rain, I wanted to pedal toward Badwater, per my original plan. I decided to give it a shot. If the wind promptly blew me off the road or into oncoming RVs, I would return to the campsite, put the Ogre in the Forester, and drive to Westside Road where I could pedal off-pavement with no traffic to worry about.

About a mile beyond Furnace Creek, looking north, the weather was closing in, but I felt safe enough on the road to continue south.


Having biked this route once before (and driven it several times), I expected to have the opportunity for plenty of gorgeous panoramic shots of the bleak Death Valley landscape between Furnace Creek and Badwater. Today most of the views were blocked by clouds, rain, or billowing dust.


When I reached Badwater, the views were almost completely obscured by walls of gray.


I always carry my ultra-lightweight emergency rain jacket on the bike, regardless of conditions. I really didn't anticipate needing it when I planned this trip to Death Valley, but here I am wrapped in mono-molecular orange plastic while being whipped by rain and wind. Note hair and loose straps of my hydration pack flapping in the gale.


Between squalls, here's the view from the boardwalk looking back at the Badwater parking lot and the sheer rock face on the other side of the road. The white spot up the cliff face is man-made.


Here's the "white spot" on the cliff face above Badwater. Sea level. Badwater is 282 feet below.


From the boardwalk, briny salt puddles. No wonder they call it Badwater.

Hey, what's that on the Ogre?


I'm always amazed at how often birds perch on my bicycles when I dismount. But this colorful guy was completely unexpected in this salt-poisoned landscape.

Note raindrops on saddle.


So much for the view from the salt flats at Badwater.


Looking west across the valley floor.

From Badwater, at 282 feet below sea level, normally we would see Telescope Peak at 11,049 feet above sea level. It's completely hidden right now, and probably snowing up there.


Toward the east, a clearer view but not quite so impressive as the hidden Panamints and Telescope Peak.


The rocky foot of the mountain along the road as I pedal back toward Furnace Creek.

Traffic was light, especially when I was southbound. I think every other car, not counting RVs, was a Ford Mustang. Must have been some kind of automobile rally.


It looks like most of the heavy weather is moving south.


Not quite so stormy toward the east.


The rain stopped and the view west improved, but beyond the far side of the valley Telescope Peak remains obscured by clouds.


There's just enough light to bring out the desert colors in the mountains on the east side of the road.


Looking west at the Panamint Range again as I work my way north. The wind is still blowing, but not as strong.


In all of Death Valley, I discovered a grand total of about two flowers. Here's one.


Here's the other flower, struck by a beam of sunshine.


Getting closer to Furnace Creek, and it looks like the worst of the wind and rain has passed.


Looking north, up the valley, with Furnace Creek in the far distance.


A little light on the golden hills along Badwater Road.


One last look toward the west as I approach Furnace Creek, but snow-capped Telescope Peak remains hidden.

Now it's time to start thinking about my afternoon ride.



Summary

Date: 19 April 2018
Time: 9:00 - 1:30
Weather: 60-70° F, showers (sometimes heavy), very windy
Route: Furnace Creek - Badwater - Furnace Creek
Distance: 38 miles with 1000' climbing
Bike: Surly Ogre
Riders: Solo

Death Valley, April 2018: Base Camp ::: Ride 1 ::: Ride 2 ::: Ride 3 ::: Ride 4 ::: Ride 5 ::: Laura from France



Comments? Questions? Suggestions? I'd like to hear from you.

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